Galapagos Islands  Source  Whalesite

THE

EDINBURGH

JOURNAL OF SCIENCE.

      Art. I. — Account of a Voyage to Madeira, Brazil, Juan Fernandez, and the Gallapagos Islands, performed in 1824 and 1825, with a view of examining their Natural History, &c. By Mr Scouler. Communicated by the Author.

      Although the public are already in possession of many voyages to the Pacific Ocean, yet, as the places I had an opportunity of visiting are seldom frequented by Europeans, and as the natural history of the North West Coast of America is still but imperfectly known, the remarks contained in the following Journal may perhaps be interesting.

      The voyage of Captain Vancouver, and the journeys of Sir A. M'Kenzie, and of Captains Lewis and Clarke, have laid open the geography of these remote regions, and added some valuable contributions to our knowledge of their natural productions. The botanical investigation of the North West Coast by Mr Menzies was as complete and extensive as its survey by Captain Vancouver, and it is only to be regretted that some equally active zoologist had not accompanied this expedition. The overland journey of Captains Lewis and Clarke enriched the American Flora with many new and curious plants, whose descriptions form the most interesting part of Pursh's work on North American plants. Little need be said recommendatory of the zoological riches of a country which possesses such a variety of animals of the tribe Rodentia or Gnawers, from the Beaver down to the Marmot and Squirrel, and which contains the Vultur

Californianus, with many other rare or nondescript species of the Eagle tribe.

      The Hudson's Bay Company, with an honourable zeal to advance the knowledge of those extensive regions which are within the sphere of their commercial exertions, were anxious to have a surgeon, (in their vessel about to undertake a voyage to the Columbia River,) who, in addition to his professional acquirements, was qualified to make collections in the various branches of natural history. Through the kind recommendations of Dr Hooker and Dr Richardson, I had the good fortune to meet with the company's approbation, and was appointed to visit the North West Coast of America. To the encouragement of the company, and the cheerful assistance I obtained from their servants, I am entirely indebted for the numerous excursions and extensive collection I was enabled to make. As it is to the Hudson's Bay Company I am indebted for the means of making my collection, so, on my return, the objects I had procured would have been of very little use to the public, unless I had enjoyed the assistance of Dr Hooker, and the free use of his extensive library. The following paper, containing an account of our voyage from London to the Gallapagos, &c. will be continued in a future number, when some papers of a more scientific nature may also be communicated.^*

      On the 25th July 1824 we left Gravesend, with every thing necessary for the preservation of plants and animals. In a medical point of view we were also excellently supplied. Every article, either of medicine or food, which could in any degree

contribute to our comfort, or assist in preventing scurvy, was liberally provided. But the best evidence of the prudence of the means employed is their success; and it may be stated that, during a long voyage of twenty-two months, we never once could detect a symptom of scurvy on any individual in the vessel. In the prospect of a long voyage, I esteemed myself fortunate in having for a companion Mr Douglas, a zealous botanist, who was engaged by the Horticultural Society of London to explore the vegetable treasures of the North West Coast of America.

      During our voyage from London to Madeira nothing occurred to attract the attention of the naturalist, and, as the weather was agreeable, we employed ourselves in making those arrangements which our new mode of living required. Since leaving England, the only animal we saw was the Procellaria pelagica (Petrel,) which became more numerous as we approached the land. On the 9th August we saw the island of Porto Santo, and afterwards that of Madeira, which, to use the expression of Spix and Martius, " appeared to float like a pleasant garden on the bosom of the ocean ;" but we were so detained by the calmness of the weather that it was the evening of the 10th before we came to anchor off Funchal. Next morning, impatient to make the most of our limited time, we proceeded to the interior of the island. On leaving the coast we found ourselves among the vallies of this fertile island, which present the appearance of one continued vineyard, interspersed with fields of the esculent Arum, and groves of Sugar-canes; at a greater elevation these vegetables disappear, and are replaced by the Chesnut-tree and the Myrtle; and the steep sides of the Pica da Cruz are only supplied with the heath and a few grasses and ferns common to alpine regions. Although we collected a considerable variety of plants and insects, the results of our journey were far from satisfying our too sanguine expectations. The phenogamous plants were sufficiently known to us, and the alpine regions afforded but a poor supply of Lichens and Mosses.

      To give any detailed description of an island so well known as Madeira would be superfluous, and to acquire a knowledge of its productions during our short visit was impossible. The

island consists of steep hills, intersected by numerous deep vallies, which are generally watered by some small rivulet, whose supplies are obtained from the melting of the mountain snows. The rocks are of a blackish colour, inclining to blue, and the decomposition of the basalt affords a favourable soil for the growth of the grape.

      The fortunate situation of Madeira, placed between the limits of the temperate and torrid zones, enables the inhabitants of this favoured clime to cultivate the plants of two climates. The common potato grows in company with the esculent Arum, and the Date of the east with the Banana, and the Fuschia coccinea is seen in company with the Vinca and Lonicera. In the course of our excursion we visited the monastery of Nossa Senhora del Monte, surrounded by groves of chesnut-trees, and the cultivation of its garden seemed to form the chief amusement of its inhabitants, who have adorned their retired abode with some of the finest plants of Europe and America. At sunset the chiming of the bells reminded us that it was time to return to the vessel, while our strange pursuits had attracted the notice of the islanders, and seemed to have excited their contempt. Next morning we left Madeira, and by the 15th August our proximity to the tropic was indicated by the abundance of flying-fish we now saw ; and, in the dull monotony of a long voyage, it was no small pleasure to preserve and dissect even these well-known animals.

      On entering the tropical regions, the marine Zoophytes become more abundant, and we had now every opportunity of witnessing that beautiful though still obscure phenomenon, the luminous appearance of the ocean. We fortunately were successful in procuring one of the most interesting of the phosphorescent inhabitants of the Atlantic. Since we had left the temperate zone, we were delighted by the brilliancy of a tropical sun, and the clear and serene sky, where a cloud or a shower are regarded as an agreeable novelty, and where, in the evening, the deep azure colour of the waves is replaced by flashes of vivid phosphorescence; but as we approached the equator, the weather became squally and cloudy, attended by frequent though moderate thunder storms, which generally prevail in

the vicinity of the line. On the evening of the 3d September, during one of these squalls, the sea became so uncommonly luminous as to attract even the attention of the sailors; and on bringing up a bucket of water, we found it contained some beautiful specimens of the Pyrosoma atlanticum of Peron. It was probably from the phosphorescence of this animal that the sea acquired its uncommon brilliancy. This animal, or rather aggregation of animals, is about two inches long, and as thick as the finger, somewhat cylindrical and diaphanous. On its surface are numerous scattered tubercles; at one extremity is a circular orifice, which opens into a central cavity; the other extremity has a globular form, and has no vestige of an aperture. The central cavity extends through the body. On its surface are little yellowish papillae which appear to communicate with the external tubercles. At first sight the Pyrosoma might be mistaken for a solitary individual of the zoophyte class, but the researches of Cuvier prove that it is an assemblage of smaller animals united organically together. This animal we never found in any other part of the ocean, — a circumstance in accordance with the observations of Peron, who remarks that these oceanic Mollusca and Zoophytes are by no means scattered indiscriminately over the ocean, but generally confined within definite geographical limits. See Peron, Voyages, t. i. p. 488. For a figure of the Pyrosoma, see Plate 30, Fig. 1 and 2 of the same work.

      On the 11th September we crossed the equator, but were detained for some time among the variable winds and heavy tropical showers. The sea-birds of the torrid zone, the tropical bird (Phaeton aethereus,) and the man-of-war-bird ( Tachypetes aquilus,) were frequently to be seen, and seemed to be in alliance with the Bonito, (Scomber Pelamis,) for maintaining a perpetual war with the flying-fish. As we advanced to the south, the Procellaria Capensis, a beautiful species of Petrel, became very abundant, but though they greedily devour any fatty substance we throw overboard, all our endeavours to procure one of them have as yet been unsuccessful.

      25th September. — The abundance of land-birds around us, and the number of butterflies which fluttered among the rigging, indicated the vicinity of land, and in the afternoon our

expectations were realized by the sight of Cape Frio, the first land in the new world we had an opportunity of seeing.

      27th. — While sailing into the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, we were entirely occupied in preparing to add to our collections a rich variety of specimens in every department of natural history. From the deck of our vessel, the hills of Brazil, covered to their summits with the richest verdure, promised to satisfy the ardour of the most zealous botanist.

      28th. — To-day we landed near the Palace, which is utterly unworthy of being a royal residence; and in our progress through the town, although some of the streets had a good appearance, no public edifice of any merit attracted our attention. The streets are narrow, and the houses are built of granite, with which the streets are also paved. The churches are numerous, but none of them are very remarkable for the beauty of their architecture, and the interior is distinguished only by a tasteless profusion of gilding. The city is supplied with water by fountains, which draw their supplies from the neighbouring hills by means of an aqueduct, which is certainly the most splendid and useful public edifice in South America. Rio also possesses several useful institutions, which, however, are still in their infancy. There is a museum of natural history, which we had no opportunity of seeing during our stay in Brazil, as it was undergoing some repairs. In the town there is a sort of public garden, which contains some curious plants; but there is a much more extensive establishment at Botafogo, where are several interesting oriental trees and shrubs. In this garden the tea-plant, the bread-fruit, and the nutmeg-tree are cultivated.

      After visiting the town, we set out to examine the natural history of its environs. The coast attracted my chief attention, that I might have an opportunity of collecting some marine animals, — and my expectations were not disappointed. The number of crustaceous animals with which the shore abounds is astonishing, and the rocks are everywhere covered with fine species of Holothuria, sea-stars (Asteriae,) and sea-anemones (Actineae,) &c. In this profusion of interesting objects, one is more perplexed in making a selection than in procuring specimens. In the afternoon I returned to the ship with a collection only limited by ability to carry it.

      29th. — The heavy showers prevented us from collecting many plants, as one is exposed in the woods to the double inconvenience of the wet and the mosquitoes. I was, however, fortunate in finding a friend, whose hospitality and knowledge of the country enabled me to spend my time to more advantage than a stranger could otherwise have done. To Mr Boag I was further indebted for considerable additions to my collection of reptiles and insects, and in directing me to those places where the most interesting plants were to be found.

      30th. — The few days I had now to spend at Rio were occupied in making excursions to the neighbouring woods and hills. But although plants were easily collected, they were rendered so moist by the frequent rains as to render the task of drying them extremely difficult. In these excursions, it is with intense curiosity one newly arrived from Europe visits the woods of a tropical country, and sees growing, in their native wildness, those plants which are cultivated with so much trouble and expence in more northern regions ! Here one sees the Melastomae and Bauhiniae unregarded, except by the curious foreigner, and the trees of Europe rivalled in height by the ferns of the tropics.

      The most abundant rock in the neighbourhood of Rio is granite. Near the sea this rock is interesting, from the large size of the crystals of felspar and mica which enter into its composition ; some of the crystals of felspar were from two to three inches in length. In the vicinity of the coast this rock is protected from the influence of the weather by the dense vegetation which covers the soil. In ascending one of the neighbouring hills, the rocks are quite exposed, and destitute of vegetables: these rocks are of a white bleached appearance, and consist of decomposing granite, so altered, that its component minerals can scarcely be recognised. The summit of this hill is also composed of granite, but not in a decomposing state, like that lower down; nor is it of so coarse a texture as the granite of the coast.

      The crystals of mica and felspar are smaller, and the former is of a deeper colour than it is near the sea. On this hill (Corcovado) the Brazilian government have a telegraph ; and no place could be better adapted for such a purpose, as it commands a beautiful and extensive view of the coast. To the

north, Cape Frio is distinctly seen, while the city of Rio and the bay of Botafoga appear like a magnificent chart spread at the feet of the spectator. The fatigue of this journey is amply repaid by the beauty of the view; and the descent under a meridian sun is one of the most cheerful scenes a naturalist can witness. The numberless variety of insects, displaying the most brilliant colours to advantage in the rays of the sun — the serpents and lizards issuing from their holes in quest of their prey, — exhibit an appearance of life and activity that cannot fail to please.

      No excursion in the vicinity of Rio can be more agreeable than exploring the Corcovado, in the vicinity of the aqueduct, where the traveller enjoys its cooling streams, and, for the same reason, finds animals more frequent in such a situation. Here one may procure an endless variety of insects,* and of the most curious reptiles, while the strange appearance of toucans, humming-birds, and parrots, pleases the ornithologist. In proceeding further up the hill, the streams which supply the aqueduct spread over a large surface of granite rocks, in the form of gentle cascades. After leaving the cascades of Caryoca, the ascent became more steep; but one had little reason to complain, as there was always a supply of cooling water at command, and curiosity was always kept awake by the variety of new objects which attract attention. In this situation the Bignonia Chambelaini grows in great abundance. During this excursion, I was often interrupted by the unfortunate slaves, who seemed to be aware of the nature of my occupations, and brought me many fine insects for a small pecuniary reward; one of them brought me a fine living specimen of a beautiful snake, Coluber venustissimus.

      On the 13th October we left Rio, and proceeded on our voyage to Cape Horn, our progress southward was soon indicated by a corresponding change of climate. The absence of the tropic bird and man-of-war-bird, (Tachypetes,) and other inhabitants of the torrid zone, was now compensated by the appearance of the petrels and albatrosses of the southern hemisphere. We succeeded in procuring plenty of specimens of the Cape petrel, (Procellaria Capensis,) by means of a fish-

hook bated with a little suet; while off the Patagonian coast we caught about 200 individuals, which, notwithstanding their fishy flavour, were not disliked by the sailors. The Petrel, when caught, never fails to vomit a considerable quantity of yellowish oily fluid on his enemy, and on dissection the source of this supply is easily detected. The first stomach is large and membranous, and thickly set with numerous glandular follicles, which appear to be the organs which secrete this oily fluid, the only defensive weapon this animal possesses. The Petrel lives chiefly on the minute crustacea, as we found no other kind of animals in the numerous stomachs we examined.

      29th. — For several days past great quantities of sea-weed have floated past us, and we at last succeeded in procuring a mass of this fucus, which, on examination, proved to be the F. pyriferus. The roots of this plant abounded in marine animals, forming a little floating menagerie of crustacea and zoophytes. We obtained five species of sertularia, two species of testaceous mollusca, two sea-stars, (Asteriae,) two fine species of Cancer, an Echinus, and a Hirudo.

      4th November. — We have now got round Cape Horn without experiencing any of those dreadful storms which are far more alarming in the journals of travellers than off the coast of Terra del Fuego. The chief difficulty arises from the constant westerly winds; but in the summer season probably little danger is to be apprehended.

      8th. — This morning we were nearly becalmed, and had abundance of albatrosses in the vicinity of the ship. In the course of an hour we succeeded in procuring forty specimens, all of the dark-coloured variety, D. fuliginosa. Some of these birds measured seven feet between the tips of the wings. Their weight did not correspond well with their size, as they generally weighed about five pounds. This was owing to the very thick plumage with which they were provided. The physiognomy of the albatross is very remarkable ; its flat head and crooked bill give it some resemblance to the owl, which is much heightened by its large eyes and very convex cornea, — a structure which renders it probable that this animal seeks its food chiefly during twilight. The oesophagus of this bird is furnished at its upper part with an apparatus similar to what we find in the

gullets of the marine turtles, and probably for a similar use, as the albatross lives principally on molluscous animals of the genus Sepia.

      As we advanced to the north, the D. fuliginosa became more scarce, while the larger species, the D. exulans, appeared more abundant; and, as far as our experience goes, we always found that the dark leaden-coloured species was more plentiful in high latitudes, and that the D. exulans always approached nearer the confines of the tropics. The last named species is by far the largest of aquatic birds; one of them we examined measured twelve feet between the extremities of the wings, and weighed eighteen pounds. The feathers of this species abounded in a large species of Ricinus, and in their intestinal canal we found two intestinal worms, — the one was an Ascaris, which inhabited the oesophagus, and the other was a Taenia, which abounded in the great intestines.

      14th December. — This forenoon we saw the island of Massafuero, bearing N.N.E.; and the appearance of land, however inaccessible, is always agreeable, especially during a tedious voyage. This island had a rugged appearance, terminating in steep, almost perpendicular, rocks, which render it of very difficult access. The highest land might be about 200 feet above the level of the sea. The only inhabitants of this rock are the goats and seals; and on account of the latter it was frequently visited by vessels occupied in killing seals, and carrying their skins to China. The master of one of these vessels, alike destitute of every principle of honour and humanity, formed the design of taking away a number of the inhabitants of Easter Island, and leaving them to kill seals for him on this desolate spot. With this intention he proceeded to Easter Island, and after seizing a number of the unsuspecting natives who had visited the ship, and secured his unhappy victims, he resumed his voyage to finish his scheme. After being three days at sea, they were allowed to come on deck, under the idea that distance from land would have rendered them tractable, as all hopes of again seeing their native island must now be at an end. In this, however, he was disappointed, for they all leaped overboard, expecting to swim to Easter Island. The boat was sent to pick them up, but

they preferred death to slavery, and, by their dexterous diving, successfully eluded the pursuit of the sailors. They were seen to swim away in different directions, as each thought was. most direct to their native island, which they were never to revisit.

      At a distance Juan Fernandez brings to recollection the appearance of Madeira, only its superior verdure is rendered doubly charming by the vast extent of ocean one traverses before he can visit its fertile valleys. The island was approached with equal interest by every one in the vessel, but with different feelings; the seamen regarded it as classic ground, from the romance connected with its history, and the naturalists expected many additions to their collections, in a land as yet untouched by the botanist.

      15th. — We landed in a small bay at the northern extremity of Juan Fernandez, and hastened to explore the hills whose verdure promised us abundance of plants. The level land near the coast had more resemblance to a European cornfield than to a desolate valley of the Pacific Ocean, being entirely overgrown with oats, interspersed in different places with wild carrots. On penetrating through the corn-fields, we discovered a small cavern excavated from the decomposing rock, and bearing evident traces of having been recently inhabited. A kind of substitute for a lamp was suspended from the roof, and the quantity of bones scattered about showed there was no scarcity of provisions on the island. A little to the eastward of this strange abode, our curiosity was amply gratified by a beautiful example of romantic scenery. A natural arch, about seven feet in height, admitted us to a small bay, bounded on all sides by steep perpendicular rocks, continually washed by the waves. The almost inaccessible crags afforded a secure retreat to the sea-birds, which resort thither to deposit their eggs. These rocks are of a more volcanic appearance than those of Madeira, and contain many small crystals of a green-coloured mineral. This bay abounded in sponges, which had been washed ashore, and many of them in a very fine state. We succeeded, though with much difficulty, in detaching some specimens of a species of Cerastium, which grew on the surface of the rocks.

      Having satisfied our curiosity respecting the shore, we proceeded up the valley, in expectation of finding more plants. Here we found a little stream of excellent water, which was first detected by its rippling, as its surface was entirely concealed from our notice by the immense quantities of mint {Mentha piperita) and balm {Melissa officinalis) which grow on its margins. In the afternoon we returned to the ship, well satisfied with our excursion ; but the boat's crew had procured very little water, as the stream lost itself in the sand about a mile and a half from the beach.

      17th. — This morning we landed in Cumberland Bay, which we found far better than the place we had visited yesterday, for procuring water and vegetables. On approaching the landing-place, we were surprised by the appearance of smoke arising among the trees, and by seeing goats feeding near the shore. When we got ashore, we were much pleased by finding an Englishman, who welcomed us to the island, and offered us all the assistance in his power. He told us, that, when our boat first made its appearance, he was afraid we had belonged to some Spanish privateers, and had concealed himself in the woods, as his little establishment had been formerly destroyed by these unwelcome visitors. Our new friend's name was William Clark; he had sailed from Liverpool several years ago, and visited most places in the South Pacific. At present he belongs to a party of English and Chilians, employed in killing the goats and bullocks, which are plentiful here, and in remitting their flesh and skins to different parts of the Chilian coast. The rest of the party had gone to the other side of the island, and would not return for a week. We were highly delighted with the beautiful situation where they had fixed their abode. A fine stream of water ran into the bay, a few yards from the landing-place, and the hpuse was situated amidst a shrubbery of Fuschia, mixed with peach and apple-trees. The sea abounded in fishes, and the fruits of Europe grew in the greatest profusion. In the vicinity of Cumberland Bay we saw the following foreign vegetables, chiefly European : oats, pears, apples, strawberries, peaches, vines, rue, mint, balm, radish, Indian cress, and figs.

      Our guide had very little European furniture in his house,

but we were much surprised at the extent of his library, as he possessed upwards of twenty English books on different subjects. The most curious article he had was an iron pot with the bottom knocked out. It was, however, too valuable an article to be thrown away, and he had fitted a wooden one to it; when he had occasion to boil any thing, he immersed it in the earth and kindled a fire round its sides.

      During our short excursion to the interior we had no occasion to complain of the poverty of the country, as it abounded in the most beautiful plants and shrubs. The dry soil was covered by an evergreen Arbutus and a shrubby Campanula, (bell-flower,) and almost every sheltered rock afforded a different species of fern. During this excursion we were tempted to stop in the vicinity of the old fort by the abundance of ripe strawberries which grew on the sides of the hill; these strawberries were of small size and pale colour, but of a very agreeable flavour. One curious circumstance is the redness of the soil in this situation, which is, however, much exaggerated by Lord Anson, when he says it equals vermilion in brightness; but the redness of the ground was so inconsiderable that it would not have attracted our attention had we not been directed to it by Lord Anson's statements.^*

      Cumberland Bay used to be the favourite resort of the English privateers and whalers; and in time of war its utility to them was so great as to excite the jealousy of the Spaniards, who, in 1765, constructed a battery mounting fifty guns, to command the harbour, and at the same time formed a settlement on the island; but in a few years this colony was abandoned. In 1811 the island was resettled and used as a place of banishment for convicts from Chili. This attempt, however, like the preceding, was given up after a short trial. At present the island is seldom visited by ships, but is still the occasional residence of the adventurers employed in procuring cattle and fishing. The battery, which still remains

almost uninjured, is situated on an eminence about 500 yards from the beach, and effectually commands the landing-place. Most of the guns remained till a few years ago, when they were removed by the Chilians to prevent their falling into the hands of the Spanish royalists. The ground on which the fort stands consists of a red-coloured earth, formed by the decomposition of the basaltic rocks, and is plentifully covered by strawberries, now in a state of ripeness, and very abundant. To the west of the battery a church, and an excellent oven, still remain. The church is built in the form of the Latin cross, and bears the following inscription. "La caza de Dios overto del cielo y saccolacaesta, 24 de Septiembre 1811." Although the doors and windows of this building had been removed, it still possessed the font, and the walls still retained their whitewashed appearance. To the north east of the church this beautiful valley is quite covered by corn-fields, which are still divided from each other by their former landmarks. As the valley approaches the mountains, the clusters of ferns raising their green fronds on the margins of the stream, have a most pleasing appearance, and, in my opinion, forms the most beautiful vegetable ornament of the island.

      Such is the present state of that island which afforded to Lord Anson's ships so much refreshment after his voyage round Cape Horn, and fully merits all the praises he bestows on it. With a climate similar to Madeira, and a similar geological structure, it is probable that Juan Fernandez should afford equal advantages for the cultivation of the vine ; and those plants which we saw appeared to grow luxuriantly, and were loaded with plenty of grapes, but still in an early state.

      Land animals are by no means numerous, nor, with the exception of the seal, can Juan Fernandez boast of a single indigenous mammiferous animal. The bullock, the goat, and the rat, are the only other animals of this class, and all of them have been introduced. The cattle are now driven from the north side of the island, since the hunters have fixed their residence there; but they are still abundant on the southern extremity, which is more inaccessible. The hunters in killing the bullocks drive them into a small plain, bounded

by steep hills, and then shoot them. In killing the goats, a different method is adopted. The people employed in this difficult business lie down in those rocky situations which the goats frequent, and when they approach the hunters, their hamstrings are cut with a sharp knife.

      Juan Fernandez is entirely destitute of lizards and serpents, at least we never saw any.

      The rocky shores afford a safe retreat to the Cape petrels and other sea-fowls which abound near the island, so that it was in vain we attempted to reach their nests. The only land-birds we saw were pigeons and owls. The former are exceedingly abundant, especially in the vicinity of the corn-fields, from which they probably obtain their chief support. The owls are of small size, and by no means abundant; they appear to be confined to the more secluded places, at a distance from the shore.

      The bay abounds in fishes, which are to be procured with very little trouble, so that, if the visitor fails in procuring cattle, he may at all events depend on a plentiful supply.of fresh provisions. Our limited time did not allow us to examine the different fish we caught with sufficient care; but the most common, and by far the best, is the cod (Gadus morhua;) the next in frequency is the lump-fish (Cyclopterus lumpus,) which is seen adhering to almost every stone; and this helpless animal becomes a ready prey to the seal and the sea-fowls.

      The articulated animals are the most plentiful on this island; and although we saw few insects, I have every reason to believe they are exceedingly numerous at a more advanced period of the year, for almost every vegetable had its peculiar caterpillar feeding on it. Near the shore we found several kinds of crab, and the deep water abounded in a beautiful species of lobster, which may be described in a future paper.

      The antennae were as long as the body, which is of a fine red colour, and thickly set with strong sharp spines. The difficulty of obtaining this animal, from the quickness with which it swims, and the trouble of laying hold of it from its sharp spines, rendered it an interesting specimen.

      At low water we found some species of corallines and sponges, and a sea-star (Asterias,) furnished with from twenty-five to thirty-eight rays.

      19th December. — This morning we left Juan Fernandez, and directed our course to the Gallapagos. The island of Juan Fernandez, for beauty of scenery and richness of verdure, exexceeds[sic] any place we visited during our voyage. Independent of its natural beauty, the deserted houses and ruined gardens give variety to the landscape, and add an interest to the scenery which the unsettled desert cannot possess. Previous to going on board the ship, our countryman, whose exhausted wardrobe we had in some degree replenished, gave us the acceptable present of a goat which he had feeding near the house, and would gladly have added more to our fresh stock, had it been in his power.

      7th January. — Our passage to the Gallapagos was the most pleasant part of our voyage. We enjoyed the serene weather and cloudless sky of the tropical regions. During this weather the Noddy {Sterna stolida) for the first time alighted on our vessel, a bird which we only saw in the tropical climates. This bird is remarkable for the stupidity with which it allows itself to be taken; it would perch on the rigging, and, regardless of our presence, quietly allow itself to be laid hold of.

      9th. — We saw Chatham Island, one of the Gallapagos. The appearance of this island at a distance indicates but little fertility. The land consisted of low conical hills rising gradually from the ocean, and bounded by a flat sandy beach, against which the sea beat with some violence. On the hills many dark patches of land appeared entirely deprived of vegetable covering.

      10th. — To-day the boat was sent to land on James's island, to ascertain what was to be found in the way of fresh provisions. The land is in some places very abundant in trees and shrubs, while other situations presented a bare and exposed surface, consisting of masses of lava. Such at least was the appearance from the ship. In the afternoon the boat returned, bringing two very large turtles (T. viridis,) Iguanas, and plenty of fish. Those who had been in the boat assured us that the shore abounded in turtles, and that tortoises were to be got in the woods. They had not however seen any fresh water.

      11th — Next day we went ashore in the long-boat, and found considerable difficulty in landing, on account of the

heavy surf which beat against the beach. The place where we now were consisted of a low sandy bank which separated a small salt water lake from the sea. Here we found traces of previous visitors, but the most-unequivocal and most affecting was the tomb of an American officer. This unassuming grave was only accidentally discovered, as it is concealed from notice by a thick bush-wood, cotton trees, and Tournefortiae. At the head of the grave was a board painted black, and bearing the following inscription, so honourable to the deceased. "Sacred to the memory of John Cowan, lieutenant of the U. S. frigate Essex, who died here September 1813. His memory is lamented by his friends and country, and honoured by his brother officers."^*

      On penetrating into the country, we found very few plants, at least few in comparison to what we might expect in such a climate. The abundance and interesting nature of the animals well compensated for the scarcity of plants; but the heat was so intense, and the moisture of the country so great, that we were unable to preserve many birds and fishes which we thought new or curious. The rocks were covered by pelicans and other web-footed birds watching the fish, and, near the coast, various species of heron were very common. The pelican belonged to the common species, (P. onocrotalus,) but most of them were young individuals.

      In this excursion we trode, for the first time, on volcanic ground, and made our way, with difficulty, through the loose lava, which readily gave way under us, and reminded us of the slag and melted matter in the vicinity of a smelting furnace. Near this place we saw a large column of volcanic matter, situated amidst a stream of lava; its surface was rough and uneven, and in many places deeply excavated — it reached to the height of sixty or seventy feet. During my excursion, I had not the good fortune to see any vestiges of a crater; but Mr Douglas, who had taken a different route, informed me he

had seen one, a circumstance which we had expected, as we saw one of the conical hills of Albemarle island burning every night we were in the vicinity of this group of islands. In the woods, where the grass is abundant, we found the tortoises grazing, and many of them of large size, weighing probably 200 pounds.

      The tortoise, (T. Indica,) we found to be much more agreeable food than the green turtle, as it is quite free from the fishy flavour which the other possesses. We found much difficulty in taking them to the shore, on account of the excessive heat, and the roughness of the ground.

      The birds were so tame, as to be easily knocked from the branches on which they were perched, and frequently alighted on the sticks we happened to have in our hand. In returning to the beach, we killed plenty of Iguanas, an animal of the lizard tribe, and esteemed a most delicate kind of food in tropical countries. Although our Iguanas differed very much from the West Indian species, both in size and appearance, being larger and of a yellowish colour, we found them much more palatable food than turtle.

      The following is an account of the most frequent animals we saw during our short visit to James's island. The only mammiferous animal is a species of seal, with very short ears and short brown hair. We killed one individual, but it soon became so putrid, that we were unable to make a description, a circumstance which prevented us from examining, in a detailed manner, many other animals. In addition to the birds already alluded to, we saw a beautiful bird of the genus Sula, nearly allied to the soland goose; its colours are very fine, and, what is most remarkable, the feet and legs are of a beautiful azure colour. On the elevated rocks, we frequently saw a small though handsome species of eagle, of a golden yellow colour. A small species of pigeon was very common in the woods, distinguished by the beauty of its plumage, and the bright metallic hue of the feathers of its neck.

      The reptiles, which are very numerous and interesting, are different kinds of turtles and lizards. The tortoise frequents the shady places in the interior of the island, where grass is

plentiful, which they consume in large quantities. As the tortoise is destitute of all offensive weapons, he draws his head and limbs within his shell on the approach of danger, making at the same time a hissing noise. These animals are capable of enduring very long fasts, and in cold weather they remain quite torpid. I kept one of these tortoises for eight months, and, during that time, it did not consume above an ounce of food.

      The green turtle is very plentiful, and attains a great size, often weighing 300 pounds; and, in the course of two days, we caught about thirty of these animals. We had two methods of taking the turtle; we either surprised them while they came on shore, or caught them while asleep on the water. In this case we approached them in the boat, making as little noise as possible, while a man stood ready to fix a tomahawk into the shell, and to hold him till he could be lifted into the boat. This last method was attended by an inconvenience, that the turtle was often so injured, as to die in a few days.

      The woods abound in a species of Iguana, which I think is new, but, unfortunately, the specimen I attempted to preserve became so putrid, that I was obliged to throw it away. It is almost twenty-nine inches long; the back and sides are of a brown colour, and the belly is yellow; the whole skin was covered by small scaly tubercles, and had a ridge of very large pointed ones extending along the back, from the occiput to the extremity of the tail. There was a dilatation under the throat, but no large tubercles in that situation. The tongue was fleshy, inextensible, and slightly bifurcated at the point. The Iguana lives entirely upon leaves and fruits, and burrows deeply into the ground.^* It is a timid inoffensive creature, and always runs from the pursuer, unless when wounded, when it turns upon its enemy. We killed great numbers of them, and used them as food. There is a smaller aquatic species, belonging to the genus Monitor, with a flat perpendicular tail, but it is much rarer than the other.

      Although snakes are said to abound on the Gallapagos, yet in all our excursions we never saw a single species.

      Shells and molluscous animals were not very plentiful. Crabs of different species were very numerous, and some of them very beautiful. The land-crab was common near the shore, and appeared to be more gregarious than the other species; they were seen running about in small families of twenty or thirty individuals, and when pursued covered themselves in the sand.

      On the 19th we left these islands and proceeded to the north-west coast.

      All the islands of this group have a similar appearance. In some places the coast rises into perpendicular rugged cliffs, attaining the height of 200 feet, and in other situations it assumes the form of a low sandy beach, separating some saltwater lakes from the sea. The mountains are generally of a conical shape, very gradual ascent, and moderate elevation. The country, in most places, is pretty well furnished with trees, except where the lava has run down, and in these situations very few vegetables grow.

John Scouler.
      "Account of a Voyage to Madeira, Brazil, Juan Fernandez, and the Gallapagos Islands, performed in 1824 and 1825, with a view of examining their Natural History."
The Edinburgh Journal of Science.
Vol. V., No. 2 (October 1826)
195-214.

Galapagos Islands  Source  Whalesite